My door restoration project (pics) - HomeModders.com

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:14 PM

I see alot of you are from another familiar website. My first post to this site will be a restoration of my side door.

The house was built in 1912, I think? I'm currently remodeling the entire side hallway. The door is the last major remodel part of the project. Its an eyesore, it doesn't match the rest of the hallway at all. However it is the only door that is not in good shape. I would just replace it but it would not match any of the other doors in the house. I'm trying to go original or restored, which means real wood. My goal is to strip and sand it to bare wood and stain it to match the new molding I made in the hallway. Worst case is I can paint it to match the walls.

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:35 PM

This is the color of the door as I took it off the frame. I've already removed the fixtures and glass. One odd thing I noticed about the door, the trim that holds the glass in place can be removed easily with a screwdriver from the outside. Maybe the builders didn't worry about such things 100 years ago?

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:35 PM

Another close up:

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:41 PM

A pick removes the old paint so I can get at the hinge screws:

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:49 PM

Another pic will all the hardware removed:

Pic of me removing the paint. I decided to use a propane torch for the outer layers, a heat gun for the oldest layer. I have used paint stripper in the past, which works extremely well, but I'll never use it again unless I use it outside. Paint stripper stinks up the house and kills too many brain cells.

The torch wont hurt the wood unless you really scorch it. Surface burns will sand right out, I'll show you later.

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 02:56 PM

When you apply heat, the paint will bubble. Some times if you heat a large area and then let it cool, the paint will chip off making it easier. If you remove the paint while its hot, it will be like clay. I would recommend removal while the paint is hot for the final layers.

Picture of most of the paint removed:

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 03:03 PM

Heres the door with the paint stripped:

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 03:16 PM

I started with 50 grit, then moved to 60. When everything is down to the bare wood I'll probably finish with 220 using a random orbital sander.

Pics after sanding:

Some pics of me sanding the fancy edges and inner sections. This is a pain, all had to be done by hand. I ordered a sander with a real small head on it, hopefully should be able to do the small corners. The sander is pneumatic so hopefully it will work. The electric versions just didn't have enough power.

sufikation · 10-05-2008, 04:06 PM

making some good progress, my house was built in the 30's and our back door was as well. i still dont know if we will restore it or replace it.

cheese9988 · 10-05-2008, 10:12 PM

Its taken alot of time. At least eight hours to strip and sand the door to the point its at now. The inlaid parts are taking the longest so far. Plan on keeping the door off the frame for awhile.

10-05-2008, 02:14 PM	#1
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	My door restoration project (pics) I see alot of you are from another familiar website. My first post to this site will be a restoration of my side door. The house was built in 1912, I think? I'm currently remodeling the entire side hallway. The door is the last major remodel part of the project. Its an eyesore, it doesn't match the rest of the hallway at all. However it is the only door that is not in good shape. I would just replace it but it would not match any of the other doors in the house. I'm trying to go original or restored, which means real wood. My goal is to strip and sand it to bare wood and stain it to match the new molding I made in the hallway. Worst case is I can paint it to match the walls.

10-05-2008, 02:35 PM	#3
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Another close up: Last edited by cheese9988; 10-05-2008 at 02:38 PM.

10-05-2008, 03:16 PM	#8
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	I started with 50 grit, then moved to 60. When everything is down to the bare wood I'll probably finish with 220 using a random orbital sander. Pics after sanding: Some pics of me sanding the fancy edges and inner sections. This is a pain, all had to be done by hand. I ordered a sander with a real small head on it, hopefully should be able to do the small corners. The sander is pneumatic so hopefully it will work. The electric versions just didn't have enough power. Last edited by cheese9988; 10-05-2008 at 03:20 PM.

10-05-2008, 04:06 PM	#9
sufikation Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: fruitland, id Age: 26 Posts: 36 Rep Power: 0	making some good progress, my house was built in the 30's and our back door was as well. i still dont know if we will restore it or replace it. __________________ i seek knowledge, i share information.

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10-05-2008, 02:41 PM	#4
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	A pick removes the old paint so I can get at the hinge screws:

10-05-2008, 02:49 PM	#5
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Another pic will all the hardware removed: Pic of me removing the paint. I decided to use a propane torch for the outer layers, a heat gun for the oldest layer. I have used paint stripper in the past, which works extremely well, but I'll never use it again unless I use it outside. Paint stripper stinks up the house and kills too many brain cells. The torch wont hurt the wood unless you really scorch it. Surface burns will sand right out, I'll show you later.

10-05-2008, 02:56 PM	#6
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	When you apply heat, the paint will bubble. Some times if you heat a large area and then let it cool, the paint will chip off making it easier. If you remove the paint while its hot, it will be like clay. I would recommend removal while the paint is hot for the final layers. Picture of most of the paint removed:

10-05-2008, 03:03 PM	#7
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Heres the door with the paint stripped:

10-05-2008, 10:12 PM	#10
cheese9988 Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Rochester, NY Age: 29 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Its taken alot of time. At least eight hours to strip and sand the door to the point its at now. The inlaid parts are taking the longest so far. Plan on keeping the door off the frame for awhile.